Best digital manual cameras
The latter are particularly important factors for starter cameras, but we've tested all the fundamentals too, so you can be sure each model has the capacity to grow with you. These days, real-world tests are the most revealing way to understand a camera's performance and character, so we focus heavily on those, along with standardized tests for factors like ISO performance.
After testing the camera's start-up speed, we'll move onto performance. We'll also look at how quickly the buffers clears and repeat the test for both raw and JPEG files. Where applicable, we also test the camera's different autofocus modes in different lighting conditions including Face and Eye AF in single point, area and continuous modes.
If the camera's raw files are supported by Adobe Camera Raw, we'll also process some test images to see how we can push areas like shadow recovery. And we'll also test its ISO performance across the whole range to get a sense of the levels we'd be happy to push the camera to. Battery life is tested in a real-world fashion, as we use the camera over the course of the day with the screen set to the default settings. Once the battery has reached zero, we'll then count the number of shots to see how it compares to the camera's CIPA rating.
Finally, we test the camera's video skills where necessary by shooting some test footage at different frame rates and resolutions, along with its companion app. We then take everything we've learned about the camera and factor in its price to get a sense of the value-for-money it offers, before reaching our final verdict.
North America. Included in this guide: 1. Looking for the best beginner camera you can buy? Fujifilm X-T Resolution: Viewfinder: 2,K dots.
Monitor: 3. Autofocus: point AF. Maximum continuous shooting rate: 8fps full resolution. Movies: 4K at 30p. Reasons to avoid - No dedicated headphone jack - No in-body image stabilization. Specifications Sensor size: Micro Four Thirds.
Monitor: 3-inch tilting touchscreen, 1,K dots. Autofocus: point Contrast Detection AF. Maximum continuous shooting rate: 15fps. User level: Beginner. Autofocus: Intelligent Hybrid AF.
Maximum continuous shooting rate: 30fps. Specifications Type: Mirrorless. Sensor Size: Micro Four Thirds. Lens: Micro Four-Thirds. Viewfinder: 3. Monitor: 1. Maximum continuous shooting speed: 12fps. Movies: 4K at 60fps. Nikon Z fc. Viewfinder: EVF, 2,K dots.
Maximum continuous shooting rate: 11fps. User level: Enthusiast. Maximum continuous shooting rate: 10fps Single AF , 7. Movies: 4K at 24p. Reasons to avoid - Heavily cropped 4K video - Limited native lenses - Better video-oriented cameras available. Nikon D Viewfinder: Optical. Autofocus: point AF, 1 cross-type. Maximum continuous shooting rate: 5fps.
Movies: p. Sony A Viewfinder: 1,K dots. Maximum continuous shooting rate: 11fps full resolution. Movies: Full HD p. Polaroid Go. Specifications Lens: 34mm. Focusing: Fixed focus. Flash: Built-in. Self-timer: Yes. Reasons to avoid - Fixed focus can be troublesome - No dedicated close-up mode - Expensive film. Sony ZV Specifications Sensor size: One inch. Maximum continuous shooting rate: 8. Reasons to avoid - Video stabilization could be better - Limited touchscreen - No headphone jack.
But then that means those lock buttons can impede your use of those dials a bit. So there are pros and cons to physical switches for everything. They look nice, but I don't think they are really any better than LCD-based interfaces. And to be honest, other than aesthetics, I don't find it all THAT satisfying to physically click-click-click a dial into position.
It's cool at first, but the novelty wears off. But other than that, I do like the classic rangefinderish styling of my X-E1. I guess I feel that the knobs are there more for aesthetics than for practical value Anyways, it's good to know the pros and cons of manual dials for everything. They are better in some ways, worse in others. Don't let the price of the latest brand new flagship model scare you off Fuji.
The previous model, the X-T1, is still available new, as is the smaller X-T I have that one and it is an excellent camera. To me, the aperture ring is the king of manual controls, and only Fuji offers it at south-of-Leica prices. The other advantage to dial controls not mentioned above is being able to see your settings with a glance at the top of the camera, even when the power is turned off.
Unfortunately, I find the aperture rings on Fuji lenses to be too easily moved, resulting in inadvertent aperture setting changes.
The aperture rings just don't have the solid detents and greater resistance that aperture rings on classic manual lenses have. My first camera gear was hand-me-down Nikon F manual cameras and lenses from my dad. So my first photographic experiences were with changing the aperture view an aperture ring. But while Fuji lenses put that control in the same location on the lens , it just doesn't feel the same because the movement is too light and loose.
Maybe they've fixed this with their more recent lenses. It's a really lovely lens, and great in so many ways, except for the overly loose aperture ring. The other thing I have found with modern digital cameras is that there are entirely too many things that we probably will occasionally want access to to put on dials, so you still are going to need to access the menus.
So besides how many dials a camera has, you still need to consider how easy it is to understand and use the menus as you ARE going to need to use them. Most cameras from intermediate level up have pretty easy eye to the viewfinder access to shutter speed, aperture, iso and focusing, and add a couple more for an extra dial or two, then you still have probably an easy additional dozen or so that you are going to have to go into menus for. I have had no problems with the aperture rings on any of my Fujis.
My XT is neither light nor loose, with reasonable detents although the ones between the full stops take some getting used to. I just got the 60mm and its ring is noticeably tighter with excellent detents, probably close to perfect in my book.
Some people say it is too tight So mine are inconsistent, but all fun to work with. I can't speak to the zooms, though. The thing about aperture rings, and manual controls in general, as you said above, is that they can always be moved accidentally.
This was just as true of my all manual film gear-- my Pentaxes were never so tight they could not get banged around.
I think you have to be prepared to police your camera and check it regularly as part of your routine, or you may be better off with with a menu driven system. Fuji's aperture rings have nothing on true manual lenses with mechanical aperture rings that physically connect to the aperture mechanism, unfortunately. So I definitely would not say that it is the "king of manual controls. I would feel differently if the aperture ring had more pronounced and stiffer mechanical detents, but they just don't.
It's simply an electronically linked ring around the lens. As for "at a glance" sight of your settings, I'm not so sure how really valuable that is in real life.
There are plenty of other ways to see what your settings are. I think the "power is turned off" condition is mainly the time that it is advantageous. But I generally prefer to use cameras power up. Plus, dials take up a lot of room to display very limited information.
It's just not the most efficient use of space, IMHO. LCD screens, including top-plate LCDs, are quite efficient in this respect: a lot of info in a small amount of space. I would be more likely to glance at that then at several separate dials scattered across the top of the camera. Dutch forestmoonstudio. I of course should have said manual-style or analog-style controls. My bad and I stand corrected.
The Fujis are gloriously "faux" in almost every way. It is, as you said above, purely a matterer of aesthetics, and I would say it is also a matter of shooting experience, a different way of handling a digital camera.
I have a standard wheel-and-menu driven DSLR as well. I get along fine with it and find it quick and efficient to operate. Otherwise its the Fujis, which are so much more fun to handle. If I wanna change aperture do I have to use the dial or can I too set aperture via the menu system? All replies so far have been mentions of cameras with marked dials for certain settings. That is one approach, but I actually prefer blank, unmarked dials.
This also means I don't have any useless controls; if my camera had a marked exposure compensation dial, it would be of no use in Manual mode with manually selected ISO. Not just the X-T2. Most of the interchangeable lens Fuji X-cameras with viewfinders have dials, although for some of them you need to use a function button to get fast access to ISO setting. Currently using the X-T1 and can't see a compelling reason to upgrade.
Albert The one in France There is no such thing as a professional camera. A 'pro' or 'professional' photographer is someone who earns money from photography.
It is not some sort of measure of quality or expertise. Cameras don't get paid. The idea that anything that doesn't have dedicated physical manual knobs for everything is "a menu driven system" is a bit simplistic and ill-informed. Is it really a "menu"? I don't think so. Best drones in Best video cameras for photographers in Best cameras for Instagram in Check out more buying guides ».
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